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Planting summer annuals is both easy and rewarding

05-11-2008

What Melissa Wembley lacks in vision, she more than makes up for in imagination.

Pushing a rusted two-wheeled cart loaded with trailing purple petunias, narrow-leafed zinnias and hot-pink begonias around B & B Nursery, Wembley can see the beautiful outdoor showplace her yard will soon become … soon as she finds her checkbook.

And maybe just one more flat of New Guinea impatiens.

"I can never really decide," she says, frantically digging in her purse. "So I just buy some of everything."

As she navigates through the sun soaked catacombs to the side of the nursery, ducking under and around dangling hanging baskets of green potato vines, Dallas Red lantana and the occasional Wandering Jew, Wembley plucks container after container of blooming hope in the form of annuals.

"It's funny to put so much effort into something that doesn't last all that long and that I'll only have to buy all over again next year," she says, cramming a single yellow and red dahlia into the lone empty space in her buggy. "But they're all so hard to resist.

"Besides, most of these plants are idiot proof."

For the most part, summer annuals are fairly simple and straight forward. Probably the greatest sin into which most wanna-be gardeners fall is that of over-buying; of becoming so consumed by beauty and the welcomed return of warm weather as to be overwhelmed.

They see it … they buy it … all. And while this is a good problem for nursery owners, it often forces gardeners to plant things where they don't belong, thus creating clumps of withered annuals that look like they've been pulled from a burning building rather than planted with care.

Therefore the first commandment for the yard warrior— make a plan.

Though nurseries have been packed with annuals for months, now is the time to get started.

Roam your yard, choose containers, watch the sky and make note of what areas get sun and when.

Then, once placement has been decided, work up the beds — clearing any debris, churn up the soil, and mix in some composted cow manure or garden soil. And if there's time, get a soil sample — the Alabama Cooperative Extension Service can help with this — to find out exactly what kind of dirt you've got.

Or, if containers are more appropriate, start by choosing sizes. Be creative, basically anything that's a decent size, can hold dirt, plants and water, will work for a container. However, it's wise to avoid wood (it'll rot) and black plastic containers because it'll absorb too much heat.

When it's time to buy, the sky's the limit.

Buy what you like, but remember to read the tags, keeping in mind that most plants in you're mainstream markets — Lowe's, Home Depot, Wal-Mart — came from nurseries and greenhouses in California and Florida.

It's important to note because "full sun" in California is nothing like full sun in Alabama … there's hot then there's HOT. Most annuals listed as "full sun," meaning at least six hours a day, can benefit from a break, else they'll need lots of watering.

The main exception is lantana. Considered a weed throughout Texas, lantana is one of the best "full sun" annuals and some varieties even be used as a perennial if well mulched and cut back in winter. Available in a rainbow of colors, lantana is perfect in those high heat areas and will flourish the less attention that paid to it.

Which brings up another important point … No plant is truly drought tolerant until at least its second full season. Some simply require less water. Lantana, for example, will slow its blooming if over watered, which should be considered when planting. Therefore, group plants with the same needs together.

And read the tags — those white plastic things with pictures of plants sticking out from the dirt. Good tags say all that needs to be said, especially in terms of spacing, bloom time, pruning.

Such is the joy of annuals … they require less work and the sooner they get in the ground the sooner they'll settle in.

Planting time is now, when it's not too hot. All plants go through some degree of shock. It takes time for them to acclimate to their new surroundings. Don't be surprised if that beautiful specimen suddenly drops all its blooms soon as it gets in the ground. Give it time to adjust.

When it comes to arrangements, there's a little mantra common to the master gardeners — always buy in odd, never even, amounts. And avoid planting in straight lines, conformity is boring. Stagger, mound, circle, create a design that allows the plants to fill in and reach their full potential.

The actual act of planting is simple. Push the plant out from the bottom, squeezing gently so as to avoid ripping at the roots, then carefully break up the root ball. If plants are "leggy and loose" cut them back to create a fuller look.

Then it's a matter of digging a whole — back-filling with original soil — sprinkling in a little time-released fertilizer, such as Osmocote, and watching it all grow.

As the summer wears on, pinch annuals like coleus and petunias to keep them full. A little pinch, removing the top inch or two of stem, will correct the problem. If colors begin to fade, a water soluble fertilizer or "bloom boost," should do the trick.

From there … sit back, enjoy and pray for rain.


Garden design tips for summer annuals

• Re-create a favorite pattern from a family crest, piece of fabric, or needlepoint with annuals in your flower garden. Use pale sand to outline the plant groupings before planting when laying out annual beds.

• Plant staggered rows of annuals to create a fuller look.

• Staggered rows are also nice for showcasing taller annuals, such as blue salvia or snapdragons.

• Create a shade garden by choosing flowers with pastel or brightly colored blossoms. Dark burgundy leaves and cool blue or purple flowers won't shine the way brighter blooms do from shady garden depths.

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About Brett Buckner

Brett Buckner is a features and entertainment writer for The Anniston Star.

Contact Brett Buckner

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