Food

Mention the great wines of Bordeaux and even the uninitiated automatically assume you are referring to the red wines from the region. Bordeaux, the most famous wine region in France and arguably the world, is situated about an hour drive from the Atlantic Ocean at the confluence of three rivers, the Dordogne and the Garonne that empty into the mighty Gironde River.

Bordeaux is the second largest wine-growing region in the world with 300,000 acres in cultivation. Only the Languedoc in France has more acres under cultivation with some 700,000. In comparison, California has 475,282 acres planted to vines.

Unlike America's wine industry where varietal planting is left to the discretion of those in charge of the vineyards, the French wine industry is heavily regulated. The government dictates the specific grape varietals that may be planted in a particular region.

Bordeaux wines are always made from blends of allowed varietals. The region's famous reds are made from a blend of five allowed red wine varietals, cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot.

These blended wines have been in great demand since the beginning of the wine trade. While 80 percent of wine produced in this region is red, Bordeaux has a dirty little secret.

In addition to its famous botrytis white dessert wines like sauternes, the region also produces dry white blended table wines from the allowed white varietals of semillon, sauvignon blanc, muscadelle, and to a lesser extent ugni blanc. Noticeably absent from the allowed white varietals is the world's white wine workhorse, chardonnay. Its cultivation is not allowed.

Generally, Bordeaux wine labels do not herald the wine's origin. These wines are most frequently known by the name of the estate, chateau, or maker. Usually Bordeaux is in small letters and varietals making up the blend are rarely indicated. It is assumed by those marketing and making these wines that the consumer will know if the wine is a Bordeaux red or white, it is made from a blend of either white or red allowed varietals

The white wines of Bordeaux though not abundant in our area are worth seeking out. They are great summer wines. Excellent for picnics and outdoor concerts like Music at McClellan. Most are reasonably priced. There are a few exceptions. Chateau Haut-Brion's (oh bree-yon) 2005 Haut-Brion Blanc can be had on futures for the mere price of $799.99 per bottle at Wally's in Los Angeles see www.wallywine.com.

If increased gasoline prices have reduced your wine budget for wines like Haut-Brion Blanc, then consider these locally available Bordeaux blanc alternatives.

2006 Augey. $9.75 at Tyson Art and Frame's Wine Closet in Golden Springs. I first found this wine in a mountainous display at Bruno's in Orange Beach. I was intrigued to find white Bordeaux on display in a supermarket priced in the $10.00 range.

I found this wine to be surprisingly good with a nice balance of fruit to acidity. The creaminess of the semillon tames the sauvignon blanc in the blend. I like the back label. The name is pronounced, O-jay, and wonder of wonders it tells the blend composition. Excellent quaffing wine that pairs well with seafood and chicken. Nice as an aperitif with cheese and crackers.

Domaine de Rieux 2005 Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne. $9.99 at the Wine Cellar on Quintard Ave. Though Gascony is not technically a part of Bordeaux, it is adjacent and south of Bordeaux Both areas are influenced by their close proximity to the Atlantic Bay of Biscay. Vin de pays are the country wines of France. They are a lesser classification than the AOC wines that include the most prestigious French wines. Terry Paschal of The Wine Cellar says this is a dry wine with hints of residual sugar. Nice for out door concerts and picnics because it is closed with a screw top.

This wine's label is more typical of the area. No indication is given of what makes up the blend and no guide to pronunciation of the domaine.