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Spring fashion trends: Blousy, loose, flowing and MC Hammer

09-28-2008

OK, we admit it: Spring fashion is usually a lighter version of fall trends.

At the recent New York fashion week for spring 2009, designers sampled from looks already on store shelves: belted sheaths; colorful print chemises; full skirts; cropped and short-sleeved jackets; vests; trench coats and high-waisted pants.

These styles continue through spring, but fashion — at its core — is about change. Whether it's updating, editing or remixing, the designer styles must evolve with the culture.

So what's new — really new — for spring?

Maxi dresses/full trousers

Long, flowing maxi dresses (sexy up top; mumu down below) with halters or tank tops flitted and fluttered down the catwalks of Monique Lhuillier, Carlos Miele, Miss Sixty, Reem Acra and Peter Som.

Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, Joanna Mastroianni, Tommy Hilfiger and Nanette Lepore had the wide-legged trousers a la Katherine Hepburn.

Either way, you can hide a lot of figure flaws — the sins of a long winter hibernating at Krispy Kreme — in these roomy styles.

Harem pants

No, we don't expect everyone to want that I Dream of Jeannie look, but it is a bubbling up trend. Miss Sixty had the most voluminous ones. But blousy pants gathered at the ankle were seen at DKNY (MC Hammer-esque), Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. Remember this and remember it well: It is all a matter of proportion.

Jumpsuits

If Marc Jacobs does it, then it is officially hip. Until he capriciously decides it is not.

So for the moment (and this moment only), jumpsuits are happening. Jacobs did one-shoulder, knickers-length styles, while Betsey Johnson went simpler but with stripes.

Also jumping on the jumpsuit bandwagon: Diesel Black Gold, Michael Kors, Baby Phat, Tommy Hilfiger and Miss Sixty.

Boho blouses/ pajama tops

Will the bohemian trend ever die? Doesn't look like it.

It's just too comfy without being sloppy; looks cool in hot weather; and mixes and matches with the ease of Garanimals. From Miss Sixty and Peter Som to Betsey Johnson and Matthew Williamson, roomy and loose tops were put on top of everything from hot pants to circle skirts to cropped trousers.

Sleeve interest

Seventh Avenue has got something up its sleeve for spring, or rather on its sleeve.

The sleeve is getting a lot more detailed interest for spring '09 — whether it's gathers, puckers, ruching, pleats, folds, caps, slits or closures.

Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein folded his sculptural sleeves up over themselves like delicate origami work. At Diesel Black Gold, the marching-band epaulets dangled silvery fringe over the sleeves. Vivienne Tam gently ruched her sleeves, giving her dresses a three-dimensional quality.

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